Preparing Graphics for Print
I got into graphic design kind of accidentally.
Basically, I'm a part of the Internet Generation. My parents are and were very tech-savvy, and my whole family shares the same view of new programs that allow you to manipulate images, sound, and other media: we go "ooh!" and treat them like new toys. So, essentially, I was brought up playing with my own digital creations, and kind of learned Photoshop and other programs like it as a matter of course.
Lucky for me, right? Right. When I first got into the field of graphic design professionally, mastering the on-screen side of it was easy for me. New programs were easy to figure out intuitively, and because of my background with high-quality programs like Photoshop, I had a creative problem-solving mindset that allowed me to do more than the average joe even with a pretty lo-fi imaging program like Paint.
What was completely beyond me when I first started out was something that was very basic to people who had been in the field for years: readying images for print. I had to learn a lot as I went, and sometimes feign confidence and hoping a handy Google search would soon explain to me what I didn't understand. So you don't have to do the same thing, here is an overview of the most important things I've learned about designing for print.
Your computer screen is RGB. Printers are CMYK. RGB and CMYK are two different standards for rendering full-color. RGB stands for red, green, and blue. CMYK stands for Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Key ("Key" is old printing lingo that means black)--which are the four colors referred to in four-color printing (four color is actually synonymous with "full color" in printing terms). A good design program will let you choose what color mode you are working in--in Photoshop, it's in the "Image" menu under "Mode". It's best to work in CMYK from the start, because conversion will alter your color somewhat (generally RGB to CMYK leaves reds and purples kind of brownish and murky). However, if you must work in RGB (to, for example, access certain functions in Photoshop), make sure that you take a close look at your color and make adjustments if needed, after you convert it. Also, if you are sending previews via email to a client, make sure thoseare saved in RGB--they may not be able to view CMYK images, even if they are saved as a common filetype like a .jpg.
High resolution, high resolution, high resolution! If you're scanning photos, scan them in at as high resolution as possible. If you're creating from scratch in a design program, make sure you design in a high resolution--minimum 300dpi. Some printers will accept lower resolution (especially if your file size becomes prohibitively large) but it's always best to start off as high-quality as possible, and keep it that way unless you have no other option. No one wants their awesome designs to look sad and pixelated once they're printed.
A Note on File Types In general, keep your design in a native file type (.psd if you're working in Photoshop, for example) until you're ready to hand it over to the printer. This way you minimize quality downgrade caused by multiple conversions. .jpg files in particular will degrade in quality if you save them, open them up, change something, and save them again--the more you do it, the lousier they will look.
Ask your printer what type of file they prefer. Many prefer to work with .eps files; many will accept high-quality .pdfs; some actually prefer to work with native, layered files. In general, steer clear of the typical image file types that might jump to mind -- .jpgs, as we've discussed, degrade in quality; .gifs use indexed (not CMYK) color; .TIFFs are usually such large file sizes that transmitting them becomes an issue.
Bleed Lines Again, my rule of thumb is to check with your printer. A good rule of thumb is to plan for at least an eighth-inch bleed--what this means is, have your image extend out an eighth of an inch further on all sides than the area you want to print. This is your "bleed" area--it will prevent you from, for example, getting a stack of beautifully designed 4x6 postcard fliers with an ugly white line along one side because they weren't aligned just right. A professional design program like Photoshop, Illustrator, or Quark will make it easy for you to superimpose digital bleed lines so you can see where your "printable area" ends and your "bleed area" begins.
Another important note about alignment: just as something can be misaligned and leave white space on your image without bleed; a printer may align an image slightly differently than you planned it and cut off part of what was supposed to print. It's always a good idea to keep your text and very important image at least an eighth to a quarter of an inch inside of your printable area--this will prevent letters from being cut off.
Never Hesitate to Ask Though I've provided you with some important basics here, it's always a good idea to ask the printer you're working with what his or her preferences are. Far from looking unprofessional, most printers will be happy that you have the foresight to ask--it saves both of you time by allowing you to get it right the first time, instead of having to go back and change something to their specifications and resend it.
If you've found this article informative, and have comments or still find yourself with some questions, please give us a yell at Luck for Laura's Myspace page: www.myspace.com/luckforlaura . We'd love to hear from you.
